Archive for January, 2009

Boring Head Adventures

(Just a disclaimer, I wrote this late at night, so if may not make perfect sense. I’ll edit it for clarity when I get a chance)

Center Finder

Aligning with a Center Finder

Rewinding a few months back to the design phase of my robot, I had the issue that I wanted to use both radial ball bearings, as well as Teflon/bronze washers thrust bearings in the robot’s leg joints in order to provide as smooth motion as possible. Sounds easy right? I found some 8mm diameter bearings that I got for a really good price, and still but needed to find a large outside diameter Teflon washer with a small inside diameter to fit over the shaft. I couldn’t find such a washer at low volume and low cost. After some thought, I decided that I could get some standard 1/4″ ID washers, with a .750″ OD, which is slightly less than the diameter of the robot’s frame at the joints. The theory being that I could then bore out the inside diameter to 8mm, and have that slip over the bearing which I would then only seat part way into the frame. Sounds easy, right? To do it well, I needed to make a jig.

Boring the washer jig

Boring the hole for the washer

With the arrival of my new boring head for my Sherline mill today, I figured what better way to learn how to actually use it than by making a jig for boring my washers out. This was a better option than trying to make the bearing seats in the frame without having ever done any real boring before, and risking ruining some parts I’ve already put a lot of time into. I did a few quick tests on some scrap metal, and then got down to business. I cut two pieces of some thin bar stock aluminum, drilled, tapped and screwed them together, and then began to make the center hole, which was to be 8mm. I drilled a rough hole approximately 6mm in diameter into the aluminum, and then put it into the mill’s vice. Using the center finder, I (obviously) found the center of the hole to line it up, and proceeded to bore out the 8mm center hole. After that was done, simply unscrew the two pieces of metal that make up the jig, and in the bottom piece I made a flat bottomed hole 0.750″ diameter, and a bit under 1mm deep to seat the washer in place. The key, I discovered, is to do it slowly and patiently. I ended up cutting the recommended 20mil at a time, then smaller and smaller increments as I got closer to my desired final diameter for the hole.

Finished Washer Boring Jig

Finished Washer Boring Jig

The end result turned out perfect. The teflon washers are simply seated into the jig, and held in place with the top plate. Since the material is soft, I can use just an exact-o knife to cut away the excess material on the inside, to a perfect 8mm diameter using the jig. For the bronze washers, I chose to re-align the jig in the mill and use the boring head to to bore out the center, a few washers at a time. The reason I’m using both Teflon and bronze is due to the fact that the Teflon washers are approximately 0.63″ thick, and the bronze washers are thin. I use the Teflon as the main thrust bearing washer, and then have the bronze washers to act as shims to make sure the joint is nice and snug, despite any tolerance issues in machining the frame. (I am far from an experienced machinist, so several parts of the robot are designed such that I can make mistakes and can recover from them instead of having to rebuild complicated parts)

First Bearing Seat sized

First Bored Bearing Seat

[caption id="" align="alignright" width="150" caption="Perfect Fit of Bearing assembly"]First Bearing Seat - Perfect fit sized[/caption]After seeing how well the boring head worked out on the jig, I decided to try it out to bearing seat for the leg joints. After carefully measuring with the center finder, I began to make the 8mm diameter x 3mm deep cut to seat the bearing into the frame. It came out surprisingly well, and aligned concentrically with the 3mm reamed shaft/pilot hole I had to start with. I can run a shaft through both bearing and 3mm hole without binding. Now I only have another 23 bearing seats to go… On that note, the rest of the parts have been water-jet cut, and should arrive later this week. A lot of work goes from turning the water-jet cut roughs into final parts, but progress is definitely being made. I have also gotten some work done on the motor controllers in the past little while, but still need to finish up the design revision before sending out to get more PCBs made. When those get back, I have to build them and finish programming them. If all goes well, I’m hoping to have the robot workign with a very basic walking gate in a few months. Then the fun begins with experimenting with more complicated control algorithms, although I have a feeling progress will slow down as the weather turns nicer and the diving season kicks back into high gear.

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Carbon Fiber: Sometimes it’s Just Gotta Look Cool

Base_Plate

Carbon Fiber Base Plate

Today I got my sheet of Carbon Fiber in the mail, which I’m using for some structural and cosmetic parts on the Quadruped. I whipped up the base plate/battery tray this evening, which worked out awesome. The picture to the left does not do it justice! Carbon fiber just looks plain old cool.

Although I haven’t had too much time to do more work on the robot since my last post, I have done up the axles for the joints in the prototype leg. I still need to get the boring tool for the mill (it’s on order) to properly seat the bearings and gears to finish the leg, however. Even without the bearings, the motion is very smooth and stable, but hey, for less than $1 a bearing, why not?

Joint1

Hip Joint, with flat flex cable routing

In the picture to the right, you can see some details of the joint, and how I’m routing the flat flex cable for the motor controller (I’m offloading one motor controller onto each leg, to control the two motors in the leg). It took a lot of thought in the design phase on how to route the cable. The design requirements were for minimal strain on the cable, and minimum interference to other parts. That meant routing the cable as close to the axles as possible, so that they don’t bow out as much. This, however, means keeping them out of the gears. The control cable is a 0.5mm pitch, 10 pin flat flex cable.

joint2

Hip Joint, with flat flex cable routing.

After a lot of thought, I settled on using roll pins and e-rings as guides to keep the flat flex as close to the axles as possible, and away from the gears. It works really well, and the robot maintains a full range of motion without any interference from the cable. I still have to route the power cable, but that will be a more resiliant and should be easier than routing the flat flex.

I’m ready to order the waterjet cut parts for the next three legs, and am hoping to get that order out sometime this week. Hopefully by the end of February, I’ll have the entire body of the robot completed, then can concentrate on getting it to walk…..

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MUAV Musings

This is an old post from December 2007 which got lost while I was reshuffling my website, but thanks to the wonders of Google Caching, here it is again, updated a bit of course.

Mid 2007, I picked myself up a tiny R/C Helicopter in Hong Kong, the Walkera 5-6 Genius, as pictured here.

Walkera 5-6 Genius

Walkera 5-6 Genius

After several weeks of crashing it into random objects around my apartment, I “sort of” figured out how to fly it. Not a bad little toy. Now the gears are spinning in my head.. Why can’t I make this autonomous?

I’ve been laying out the circuit for a tiny autopilot, with full 6 degree of freedom IMU and a tiny GPS and altimeter for sensors. I haven’t quite decided on the brains for the MUAV, but right now I’m leaning towards an FPGA. I think the reconfigurability and power derrived from an FPGA outweighs the increased power consumption for this particular application, as it will allow for some more complicated functions to be implemented in the future.

Several ideas are bumping around in my head right now for indoor navigation (more effectively, making it smart enough to not smash into walls), but apart from small rudimentary IR reflection sensors, other options are too heavy (Sharp IR Range finders) or too complicated (Machine Vision) to workout without a lot more thought.

Since the origional posting, I have managed to strip the drive gears on the chopper from excessive crashing (oops). Luckily I have found a source for spare parts, so I’ll have to order some up. But, in the process I found another nice tiny Helicopter that would be neat to make Autonomous, the Buzz Fly SE. Unfortunatley, all the UAV stuff is on the backburner for me, as my Quadruped is my current main project.

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