Archive for April, 2009

Mini Sumo PCBs…

BlankPCB

Bare PCBs

After
MockUpPCB

Fitting the PCB in the body...

a rushed PCB design marathon, I got my PCBs in last week, built by the good folks at APCircuits. The stencil came in shortly after. Since I made the PCBs into a panel, I had to cut them appart and file down the edges so that it would fit in the chassis. Overall the PCBs turned out nicely. I built them up and can sucessfully load code into the LPC2138. (No pictures of the completed circuit board yet). Things are comming togethor nicely.

You’ll also notice on the silk screen that I have given this robot a more creative name than Mini Sumo Version 6. I now call it “1.21Gw,” pronounced, of course, much as Doc Brown pronounced it in the timeless classic (no pun intended) “Back to the Future”

Now to finish it up and write some basic code for the robot games this weekend.

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Angry Sparrows (Aka fixing a driveshaft)

ujoint1

The needle bearings from one of the u-joints.. This wasn't the worst

Last
ujoint2

The shaft of one of the worse u-joints.. This one had no needle bearings left.

year my front drive shaft started squealing. After a frustrating time trying to get it fixed by the dealership under warranty, I eventually pulled the drive shaft and replaced the u-joints and centering ball myself. As you can tell from the pictures taken shortly after my last trip to the dealership, they were rather destroyed..  It’s actually a pretty simple process, and a cheap u-joint tool from Princes Auto helped a lot… If only getting a dealership to do a proper warranty repair was this easy….

So, if you hear the angry sparrows a calling from your drive shaft, and lubricating does not help, replace those u-joints!

If you’re looking for a write-up on how to do this, I recommend Stu Offroad’s writeup: http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/driveshaft/driveshaft-1.htm

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It’s not a robot until it looks like a robot.

Flycutting the Delrin Body

Flycutting the outside of the Chassis

The long weekend was a busy one with lots of progress made on the mini sumo. I sat down in front of the mill, and machined the robot’s body out of a single piece of 1″ thick Delrin, a task requiring a lot of care to not mess up, as one slip up has the potential to ruin the entire part, and hours of work.All in all, I think it turned out very well. Delrin machines very well, although does require a vacuum cleaner close by to continually clean up all the chips that accumulate, especially considering how much material I removed….

I also spun the two aluminum motor mounts, and cut the stainless steel base plate that seal off the bottom of the body. Still a lot of work to do on the chassis, and the circuit design is progressing slowly.. Now it’s just a race against time to get the PCBs made, circuits debugged, and a rudimentary program written up to get the robot running for the games. It’ll be tight, but I think It will be ready…

Here are some additional pictures…

Delrin Body Bottom

Bottom view of the Chassis

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Delrin Body Front

Front view, with motor mounts and hub vissible

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Milling the inside of the Delrin Body

Milling out the inside of the Chassis, where the electronics and batteries will go

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Adventures in Mold Making Part II

TireInMold

Removing the prototype tire from the mold

After
FirstTire

The first tire.

16 painful-to-wait hours, I cracked open the mold to check out the first prototype tire. It turned out very nicely, and much better than my previous adventures so many years ago. (Maybe when i get a chance I’ll dig up some of my old stuff to use as a comparison).

The traction on these tires is amazing, and the dark blue colour looks cool, however I think I’ll use a bit less pigment next time. The tricky part will be maintaining a consistent amount of pigment, since I only have one tire mold and will have to mix up a new batch for each tire I make. Making another mold would take valuable time away that I need to work on the chassis and electronics design if I’m to have any chance of finishing in time for the WCRG…

Note the air bubble that caused a missing piece in the tire.. Since this was a prototype tire that I plan to rip apart to test the strength, I wasn’t too concerned about fixing that part while molding it.

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Adventures in Mold Making Part I

DelrinBlank

Somewhere in this piece of Delrin is a mini-sumo robot chassis.

It’s been a while since my last post, but I’ve been working away hard at designing and a little bit of machining for my Mini Sumo. It’s proving to be quite a challenge to fit all the electronics and sensors I want into the small package of a mini sumo robot only 25mm tall, but I think I’ve figured out how to shoe-horn the electronics in there.

I’m planning to do some fairly sophisticated sensors, but that’s a topic for another day, and likely after the games as I likely have to run a temporary brain for this competition as time is too tight to get a PCB turn.

Tire Mold

The finished tire mold

I have made decent headway on the chassis, having made more wheel blanks, and made a mold so that I can cast my own polyurethane tires. The mold itself is made from Delrin on the mill, held togethor by four screws, and kept in alignment with 6 dowel pins. The center slug was spun on a lathe, and forms the bottom of the mold, as well as a means to seat the wheel directly in the center of the mold. A top plate from scrap polycarbonate is screwed on to keep the top finish of the wheel nice.

Delrin is a really nice material to work with on a hobby mill and lathe, and it was relatively easy if somewhat time consuming to bore out the 25mm diameter hole for the robot.

MoldRelease2

Brushing on the Mold Release

6 or 7 years ago was the last time I cast polyurethane for sumo tires, I reckon, so I figured what I had lying around was no longer good. A bunch has changed since then, and a stop to a local mold making shop with some samples had me settled on Smooth-On Reoflex 30.  Other people have used various Reoflex durometers for sumo robot tires as well. Feeling in a spendy mood, I also decided to buy some blue pigment.

Excitedly, at the end of the work day I got home with the polyurethane in it’s shiny box, which I’d bought over lunch hour, and prepared the mold. After collecting all the things I would need to cast my tires, I found that the really Old AIrbrus lying around wouldn’t spray the mold release agent anymore, so I cheated and used a brush instead. After waiting for the mold release to dry, I clamped the mold pieces together, popped in a wheel, and started mixing some polyurethane.

MoldReady

Ready to pour the polyurethane!

This new stuff works better than what I’d used previously, and was less viscous and as such did not get as many air bubbles trapped in it while mixing. An added benefit was that I could use some over-sized syringes I had lying from an old ink-jet cartridge re-filling kit.

A word of caution when using pigment for polyurethane, however: The “SoStrong” pigment.. Is, just as the name would imply, oddly, So Strong. I used a few drops, which was a few drops too many. The end result was a very dark mix. But, as this is a prototype tire that I plan to rip appart to test strength, I wasn’t too concerned.

Now the tire is sitting in the mold. With a 16 hour de-molding time, It should be ready tomorrow roughly around lunch… We shall see how it turned out then.

UPDATE: Check out Part II of this article here!

For now, here are some other links you may find useful with regards to polyurethane sumo tires:

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